The margins
Notes
Short bits that don't fit a recipe page: tool I love, pantry staple I keep buying, idea I'm chewing on. Written when there's something to say.
The three knives that matter, and the seventeen that don't
Most knife collections are a story about hope, regret, and a Christmas in 2019. There is a chef's knife that was a gift, three steak knives, a cleaver someone bought thinking they...
Tools
The kitchen scale: when it saves you, when it makes you weird
There are two kinds of cooks: the ones who have never owned a kitchen scale, and the ones who weigh their morning espresso beans. Both are wrong. The truth, like most truths,...
Tools
The pan you should buy used (and the one you shouldn't)
Most kitchen-equipment shopping is people paying retail for things their grandmothers paid nothing for. Cast iron frying pans, copper saucepans, enameled Dutch ovens: all of them...
Tools